After you have entered the gate and paid your 20 lira admission you are surrounded by people offereing to be your guide for only 60 lira, ok...the next one 30 lira, ok 20 lira or you can wing it and read the signs and watch the video. JoAnne had been once before with a guide so we used her. Never, never take the first guide's offer. There will always be one better.